Chain link: SRAM Power Link (and similar designs by other brands). Makes removing and putting on your chain a breeze (for cleaning, lubrication or even untangling it from your frame when you drop your chain and it jams in your cranks). You no longer need a chain-breaker tool.
Frame pump: Topeak Road Morph – works like a mini floor pump. T-handle, fold-out foot-peg and thumb-lock head let you pump up to 100 psi (7 atm, 700 milliBar) without a struggle or risk of bending your Presta valve stem (also adapts to Schrader valves). It’s been called “the smug pump” by cyclists who don’t have one (and wish they did).
Fender (rear): Supergo Aireon MTB – inexpensive, also fits road bikes (650C & 700C) and Air Fridays (20”) too. [Performance Bike, the parent company, has retired the SuperGo brand as of early 2006.]
Hydration packs: (CamelBak, Hydrabak, Platypus, etc.) I drink more consistently and regularly than when I carried water bottles in frame mounted bottle cages and had to reach down between my legs to get at them. Many packs are also well-suited to carrying tools, inner tubes, energy bars, route sheets and extra clothing that would otherwise require a saddle- or handlebar bag. I even carry my frame pump in my hydration pack instead of on the bike.
Pedals: Bebop pedals have 20° of float, two-sided entry, lifetime sealed bearings requiring no maintenance, and long-wearing metal cleats. The cleats work with both road and MTB shoes, although on MTB shoes you’ll probably have to cut away the outsole near the pedal axle for clearance.
Prevent dropped chain: The Third Eye Chain Watcher mounts on the down tube, sits near the inner chainring to prevent the chain from falling (and jamming) between it and the frame. Another choice (I’ve only heard about) is the N-Gear Jump Stop.
Tire lever: Crank Brothers Speed Lever – a portable, lightweight, collapsible version of a shop tire lever, faster & easier to use than the typical 2–3 stubby plastic or metal levers.
Heat-shrink tubing: great for keeping cable ends from fraying. Lighter than traditional metal crimp-on caps for cables, easy to remove when you want to, requires less skill to install than soldering cable ends or crimping metal caps.
Performance Century gel shorts – the gel pad fails by being too thick and retaining heat.
Italian jerseys – many brands tend to be cut too long for their girth (and I’m not a big guy). Consequently, they bunch up at the waist and things get pushed out of the back pockets.
Italian cycling socks – tend to lose their shape faster and wear out sooner than, for example, DeFeet socks.
Polypropylene as a base layer fabric – feels greasy after many washings, retains odors. Thermax costs the same and performs better. Merino wool is even better: not scratchy, warm when wet, doesn’t smell.
Rain jackets without “pit zips” – no matter how “breatheable” a fabric is (even GoreTex), it won’t fully cope with the heat and perspiration you generate from cycling. Underarm zippers and vents on the back help tremendously.
Packable full-size bike: S&S Machine Bicycle Torque Couplers (BTC™) – allow a full-size frame to disassemble and fit into a 26”x 26”x 10” case for long-distance transport. Rigorous tests demonstrate that BTC equipped tubes are stronger and stiffer than the unmodified tubes. My regular road bike has BTCs on it and feels and performs just like a normal bike.
Folding travel bike: Air Friday – made-to-measure high-performance bike, fits into a standard hard suitcase. Quickly folds in half around a pivot near the bottom-bracket to fit inside subcompact cars. Its titanium cantilever beam top tube acts as a suspension system to cushion its rider from road shocks.
Commuter bike: Brompton – folds/unfolds completely in < 15 seconds. Compact enough when folded to stash under a cubicle desk, and go as a piece of carry-on luggage on trains and buses.

Garmin Forerunner 201. Designed for runners, but works for cycling too. See my
Amazon.com review for a detailed evaluation. Garmin to date has not released a firmware update to address the US Daylight Saving Time change starting in 2007: use the manual DST settings March/April and October/November.
After many years of steady service, my ForeRunner 201’s display began to fail intermittently. I’ve replaced it with a Garmin Edge 705.
LoadMyTracks is freeware from ClueTrust.com for Mac OS X which transfers data between GPS devices and Macs. It can save GPS data in GPX and KML format. TrackRunner, donationware from Laniesoftware works with LoadMyTracks to display tracks on
Google Maps (without using a web browser), as well as graph and keep a log of your performance.
GPS Visualizer is website which will map uploaded GPS data onto satellite/aerial photos, as well as produce elevation profile graphs, for free. It can also convert GPX files into KML/KMZ to display in Google Earth and Google Maps.
BikeRouteToaster, RideWithGPS,
MapMyRide and Bikely let you create routes by clicking on a Google Map.
A guide to chain wear measurement tools.
Disk brake & quick-release problem – braking forces exceed the design limits of quick-release skewers. Don’t file off “lawyer lips” or defeat wheel-retention devices—at least until disk brakes are redesigned to place the calipers ahead of the forks, rather than behind, to direct braking forces upwards rather than down.
Shimano recall for road-bike brake cables: Chain Reaction Bicycles has a page describing the recall — with photos to help identify the recalled cables.
Chain-suck – an extensive and thorough discussion and investigation of its causes and how to prevent it.
Indexed steering – what causes it and the solution to the problem.
Soul bikes gears/drivetrain calculator. It’s quite flexible and elaborate enough to initally appear confusing; however, the interface becomes clear with use.
Many Italian bike and bike-component manufacturers (internationally recognized and others not-so-well-known) are located in the Veneto (Venetian mainland of northern Italy). Here’s a compilation of links to websites of bike-related Veneto brands.
If you believe that “aluminum is harsh” or “steel fatigues and becomes soft” you need to read Sheldon Brown’s page on bicycle frame materials. For greater depth, read the 7-part series on metallurgy for bike frames by
Strong Frames.
The 15% deflection rule-of-thumb for tire inflation pressure: Read how we may be overinflating our tires and why you might want to run front tires at lower pressures than rear tires. My tire pressure calculators page has one based on the article, as well as one based on Michelin’s recommendations, and a link to Rivendell’s chart.
Product images are © their respective manufacturers.